Monastery of Sant Pau del Camp, Barcelona

Nestled in the heart of the El Raval district in central Barcelona, this former monastery once stood outside the city in an expanse of farmland, to which it owes its name. Now surrounded by blocks of shabby-chic flats and trendy boutique shops, it has been all-but forgotten in the madness of city life. But upon stepping inside the iron gates, one can feel a great sense of history in a city that is fixated on the future.

Very little is known about the story behind this place. The gravestone of Earl Guifré Borrell, which can be found on the left wall of the church, tells us that he founded the Church between the years 897 and 911. Nothing more has been written about it until 985, when it was looted by Al-Mansur’s troops. Geribert Guitard and his wife took charge of reconstructing the monastery in 1096, and it became part of a new monastic community. It was used for various different religious purposes up until 1835 when the monks abandoned it due to secularisation. It was declared a National Monument in 1879, and it is easy to see why.

The church is built following a simple cross-shaped floor plan, featuring three apses and one larger dome. However, what is most enticing about this building is the cloister, built in the 13th century, which forms a square shaped patio and is characterised by lobe-shaped arches inspired by traditional Moorish architecture which was common in Spain during this period. The 48 capitals are decorated with plant motifs, lions, birds of prey, mermaids and monsters. One particular motif depicts a woman being tortured as two toads eat her breasts. Who knows what other peculiarities are hidden within these thick stone walls.

Monasterio Sant Pau del Camp

Carrer Sant Pau, 101, 08001, Barcelona