Sargent and Fashion, Exhibition, Tate Britain, London: 22 February-7 July 2024

Over 60 paintings have show how John Singer Sargent (1856-1925), the society portrait painter, use  clothing to convey the  rank and personality of his subjects. 

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Developed in collaboration with the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, as well as the paintings over  a dozen period dresses and accessories, some worn by the sitters themselves, are on display.

The exhibition reunites  several garments with Sargent's portraits, providing a fresh perspective on Sargent and the society he skilfully navigated. Known for bringing his subjects to life, he collaborated closely with his subjects, he  manipulating their  clothing, like a  fashion art directors would today.

An example is Lady Sassoon 1907: her  original black taffeta opera cloak is exhibited alongside the painting, showing Sargent's masterful manipulation of fabric for dramatic effect.

The exhibition  delves into the narratives surrounding Sargent's key patrons, ranging from the aristocracy to influential community figures. Notable portraits include Lady Helen Vincent, Viscountess d’ Abernon 1904 and Mrs. Charles E. Inches (Louise Pomeroy) 1887, juxtaposed with their respective clothes.

The regalia worn by Charles Stewart, sixth Marquess of Londonderry at the Coronation of Edward VII 1904 is on display alongside the painting, showing Sargent's ability to convey both rank and personality through clothing.

Non-commissioned portraits, like the iconic Madame X 1883-4, will be presented with versions from both Tate and The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The exhibition includes photographs, drawings, garments, and accounts from his sitters. Key works like Mrs Montgomery Sears 1899 are displayed  alongside Mrs. Sears' dresses and photographs of Sargent at work, offering a glimpse into the artist's world.

In addition to painting wealthy patrons, Sargent portrayed professional performers, including dancers and actors. The exhibition  displays Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth 1889 alongside her dress and cloak, as well as La Carmencita 1890, depicting Spanish dancer Carmen Dauset Moreno with her yellow satin costume. 

 John Singer Sargent, Madame X, 1883-84. Lent by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Arthur Hoppock Hearn Fun, 1916 (16.53). Image copyright The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Art Resource/Scala, Florence
John Singer Sargent, Madame X, 1883-84. Lent by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Arthur Hoppock Hearn Fun, 1916 (16.53). Image copyright The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Art Resource/Scala, Florence

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