Stohrer’s story begins with the marriage of Louis XV to Marie Leszczynska, the daughter of King Stanislas of Poland. Happily for Marie’s sweet tooth, her pâtissier Nicolas Stohrer followed her to Versailles to indulge the tastes of a different country’s courtiers. In 1730, he opened his own pâtisserie on this spot.

Stohrer is now the oldest pâtisserie in Paris and retains its royal sumptuousness. The décor is as delicious as the delicacies on offer, and people pack into the pretty little space for excellent croissants and baguettes and the fancy stuff.

The range is savoury as well as sweet and, should you choose to make a picnic of it, probably better than what’s to be found in many a restaurant.

Nicolas Stohrer famously, although a little uncertainly, created (at least contributed to) the pastry ‘Baba au Rhum’, which is, of course, available here. The baba is a rich yeast cake with dried fruit and cream soaked in rum. Not for dieters, but for a lighter treat, the éclairs have a big reputation.

Rue Montorgueil is a street renowned for its producers. Like many of its neighbours, Stohrer is a bit on the pricey side but makes up for this in tastiness and the friendliness of its staff.